zesar
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Posts: 8
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Post by zesar on Feb 13, 2012 12:35:53 GMT -5
Hello, my name is César, I bought my DDRUM 4SE drumkit (with mesh pads) in 2004 or 2005 and I still enjoy it!
I find this forum really useful, as it is quite difficult to find information, advice or help regarding the DDRUM electronic drum lines (apart from their triggers). I'm facing some of the most common issues with my equipment, i.e. the cymbal choking problem.
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Post by sam(otacon28) on Feb 13, 2012 20:06:17 GMT -5
Welcome to the forum César ,
There's alot of SE user's on here so I'm sure you will find some various discussions on here about the ddrum4SE gear . Have you tried anything specific allready to remedy the cymbal choking problem that you're having ? There's been some various discussions on here about ddrum's cymbal pads , so you might also want to search for some of the threads that have some info. on what people have tried when having similar issues .
sam(otacon28)
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zesar
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Post by zesar on Feb 14, 2012 6:27:38 GMT -5
Hello, Sam, thanks for your welcome!
Yes, I tried two different ways to solve the problem.
First I tried to untight a bit the allen screws that are near the black rubber surface, but this didn't work.
Recently I had some success with this workaround: I used those foam/rubber like piece that comes in big CD or DVD packs, placing them between the pad hole and the spring, then my crash pad stopped to choke itself. My ride pad still does but not so often, and now is not necessary to re-start the unit, I only need to strongly choke the pad with my hand, after released it works well.
I wonder if changing pad inputs and pad-types could work, as I don't usually need to choke the ride cymbal... but obviously I'd prefer to solve the problem without losing any feature. And of course I'll search for any solution that's been suggested in this forum!
Thanks again,
César
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Feb 14, 2012 10:45:57 GMT -5
Hi César, welcome to the forum! I once bought two cast cymbals and they were both faulty. They did sort-of work, as in they sent out a signal when hit. Actually the piezos had come loose in both of them. Maybe this is a more common fault than people think. To check whether it is OK or not, remove the black (or silver) cast part. Unsolder the leads from the XLR. Now you should have the red "sandwich" left with just the leads coming out of it. If it rattles when you shake it, the piezo is loose and that's why choking behaviour is erronious. In this case you need to pry it open and glue the piezo back. Here's a few photos I took when I did this: www.mediafire.com/?833ofdw09bwbcj0 |
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Post by sam(otacon28) on Feb 14, 2012 11:18:53 GMT -5
Hi César, welcome to the forum! I once bought two cast cymbals and they were both faulty. They did sort-of work, as in they sent out a signal when hit. Actually the piezos had come loose in both of them. Maybe this is a more common fault than people think. To check whether it is OK or not, remove the black (or silver) cast part. Unsolder the leads from the XLR. Now you should have the red "sandwich" left with just the leads coming out of it. If it rattles when you shake it, the piezo is loose and that's why choking behaviour is erronious. In this case you need to pry it open and glue the piezo back. Here's a few photos I took when I did this: www.mediafire.com/?833ofdw09bwbcj0Good info. there man , I thought you were the one that had a few used cymbal pads that were giving you problems . I have heard someone mention in the past on the old kraft forum that they looked at the underside of the cymbal pad where the black cast piece is mounted onto the red plate and noticed that the rubber pad was missing on the front post . This rubber bumper pad lets the cymbal shock mount itself a little bit too . He was a little bit of a heavier player and on harder hits it would choke out his cymbal with it vibrating around . He replaced the rubber piece and seemed to resolve his problem . This might be worth a shot also . sam(otacon28) |
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zesar
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Post by zesar on Feb 15, 2012 13:49:03 GMT -5
Nice information, Krillo!
I'm not sure I'd dare to open the cym-pads and unsolder parts, but maybe I can give a try. If I do, I'll tell everybody about the results.
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Post by kyrrinstoch on Feb 16, 2012 20:32:11 GMT -5
I've had this happen a few times with my cymbal pads as well. In my case, it turned out that it was just due to the angle I had them at.
I would recommend that you adjust the angles you have them at before you start taking them apart. I only had to adjust mine a tiny bit and they're fine now.
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zesar
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Post by zesar on Feb 19, 2012 1:52:56 GMT -5
Hello again
I've opened the cymbal pad but no lose parts are rattling inside. Anyway, Krillo, I'd like to know what kind of paste have you used for it.
I've also varied the angle several times and this has only temporally worked. In this moment it only chokes ocasionally and a purposed choking action usually stops it from doing.
Thanks everyone for these advices!
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Post by Deleted on Feb 19, 2012 7:20:23 GMT -5
I use PL 200 which is made by Tremco-Illbruck: www.tremco-illbruck.com/You can e-mail them, they do have an office in Spain. |
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zesar
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Posts: 8
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Post by zesar on Feb 20, 2012 7:56:07 GMT -5
Thanks a lot, Krillo, I'll mail or phone them!
About the choke thing, I've read several times that it can be a module fault instead of a problem with the pad. I don't agree with this appreciation: just try to switch on the Ddrum 4se after unplugging the cymbal pad. No matter how long you'll wait to click on the sound button, it will never degrade to a choked sound on its own, it only will if cymbal cable is plugged.
I've also seen that once the cymbal has been choked (either on its own or as a purposed action), if you unplug the cable out then the module will reproduce the choked sound and it won't recover by itself.
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